Walk Details

Many thanks to Sandy Cameron for this article

The first leg of the journey by the team starts at Caernarfon, perhaps even from the world famous, Caernarfon Castle, built in the 1280s the sheer scale and enormity of the building is breathtaking. King Edward the First spared no effort or cost to make this castle a symbol of the determination to rule Wales, the building was intended to be his Royal Palace and grand seat of power in authority, housing thousands of his best military men. Built overlooking the Seiont River and towering above the town using different bands of coloured stone to emphasise its mighty structure and many sided towers fully manned with battle hardened soldiers keeping watch on the population and surrounding countryside and sea approaches. This castle was the birthplace of the first non Welsh Price of Wales in 1284, and of course seen by millions on television when Prince Charles was crowned Prince of Wales by his mother Queen Elizabeth in 1969.  

Walking on little used footpaths towards Bangor, up and down some steep slopes in wild and for the most part unspoilt rugged countryside with magnificent views if the weather is kind. Bangor itself is a cathedral city reputed to have the longest main thoroughfare in Wales right through the centre of the city, this street thronged with bars, clubs, theatres, and places of entertainment that keeps thousand of students occupied in between studies at Bangor University. There is also beautiful castle especially built for a family who made a vast fortune from the local slate quarries, now owned by the National Trust, plus Bangor is the home of the famous “Theatre Gwynedd” if the boys have any energy left they may take in a little culture, and a breath of pure fresh air on the 400 meter long pier built by the Victorians in the late 1800s that witnessed thousand of tons of Welsh Slate, shipped all over the world.  

From Bangor to Conwy, a trek though some mountainous terrain and bleak hillsides with nothing but sheep for company towards yet another Castle steeped in history. Conway Castle it is dark and forbidding with a blood soaked past, yet another military base built by Edward 1 to subdue and suppress the welsh people. Towering above the River Conwy estuary built in the late 1280s after Caernarfon but of a much simpler design with round towers and massive walls solid on the very rock of this part of Wales, from a high vantage point one can plainly see the extent of the huge stone walls that ring the town and a dozen or so watch towers that are world famous for their very condition and lack of deterioration in 800 years solid welsh granite. Conwy’s narrow streets are a nightmare for motorist but a delight for visitors and holiday makers to happily stroll about and peer into the tiny shops.  

Conway to Prestatyn and walking the “Offa’s Dyke” trail following the little ACORNS is most important, past experience has proven that you miss one of the turns and it means at least trudging all the way back several miles. Offa’s Dyke footpath contains a huge variety of terrain and landscapes,  part of the time in deep valleys, or crossing wide open fields many containing livestock “all those animals are not docile cows” if the weather is unkind walking over bare windswept hilltops can be quite daunting. However on a clear day the sheer beauty of the Snowdonia National Park and viewing the scenery from high vantage points is a once in a lifetime experience. Way back in 757 AD King Offa ruled his kingdom that stretched from the middle of England up into North Wales but after many violent and bloody battles with fierce welsh warriors. King Offa ordered the building of these massive earthworks to both mark his territory and defend his kingdom of Mercia, but the Welsh Prince and his followers would not accept this intrusion into their sacred lands, and to this day many sections of Offa’s Dyke are said to be drenched in the blood of thousands of soldiers from both sides.

Mold North Wales: Once a thriving Lead Ore mining area and today there still exist some evidence of the smelting work that took place during the industrial revolution period, there has been extensive mining for Coal, Iron, Lead, and even Silver in and around this region for many centuries making some local families very wealthy. Local historians and tale tellers can recount numerous incidents of industrial unrest, with lurid tales of police and military action paid for by the pit owners to suppress and force good honest welsh miners into slave labour conditions. This reasonably small welsh market town has a remarkable history from the days when a battle took place between Christians and Pagans. Or Good and Evil, the story told is the Christians battle cry was “Alleluia” from the famous Christian hymn and true to welsh male voice choir standards this was sung or chanted with great gusto. The effect was the Pagans hearing this volume of voice took fright, and fled the battle field to be pursued by the Christian warriors towards the local river and many pagans drowned trying to escape across the river Alyn, the rest died under the swords and clubs of the Christian and the Alyn ran red with blood for miles. More authentically there is a “Gold Cape” in the British Museum London, discovered in the 1800s and is an example of the skill of craftsmen from the ”Bronze Age” Near to Mold is a place called “Loggerheads” being at loggerheads universally is known as being in disagreement. Stemming from the legend that two wealthy landowners and the clergy failing to reach an agreement were summoned by the local inn keeper to a meeting in the hostelry and after some liberal quaffing among the discussion eventually reached an agreement, there upon every body was happy. The hostelry concerned was of course the “Three Loggerheads Inn” and the Loggerheads Public House exist today at the entrance to the beautiful “Loggerheads Country Park” If our intrepid walkers have all agreed on the map reading they should be in accord at this stage or perhaps an urgent meeting is required at a nearby watering hole, the quaffing is of course mandatory in these circumstances.    

Chester City: The final days of the walk from the heart of North Wales to the borders with England are a combination of little known footpaths and some busy industrial roads arriving at the outskirts of Chester. This very unique city is amazing in its diversity, Roman ruins dating back to the start of the millennium some quite extensive traces of occupation and buildings and a wealth of history not found in any other part of Britain. Today a thriving prosperous economy and centre of tourist activity with visitors from all over the world on a regular basis. The heart of the city surrounded by virtually two miles of the original roman walls still walked upon by countless thousands every day, during opening hours a Mecca for shoppers seeking that special bargain, in the evening a myriad of eating places and watering holes representing just about every culture possible. Chester has a huge university population plus the holiday visitors and locals make it one of the most cosmopolitan places in England. Yet it has calmness and serenity of what has been a long established community straddling the River Dee the natural border between Wales & England, the River Dee and Chester was a thriving seaport long before even Liverpool.

 

Caernarfon Castle

Bangor Pier

 

View of Conwy Castle

 

Prestatyn Seafront 

 

Countryside around Mold

 

Chester